Movado 220M

 
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Movado 220M

Description

Before Felsa invented the bidirectional selfwinding mechanism in the 1940ies, there were several other selfwinding construction. Often the so-called “Harwood-Type” was used, also known as bumper automatic.

In the early 1940ies, Movado released their first selfwinding movement, a bumper automatic, which had an unusual large diameter of 12 3/4 lignes.

Movado 220M: base plate

base plate

The base plate tells us, that a standard manual wind movement was used as base, but the base plate was enlarged to give place to the bumper and the two buffer springs.

Movado 220M: gear train

gear train

All gears, with the exception of minute wheel and mainspring barrel are ruby-beared.

Unlike most other manual wind movements, the gear train works in counter clockwise direction (seen from the movement side). Infact, the gear train uses very few space and allows a large mainspring barrel for an autonomy of 56 hours.

Movado 220M: side view of the gear train

side view of the gear train

It’s the usual gear train of that epoch with directly driven center minute wheel, third wheel, fourth wheel and escapement wheel.

Movado 220M: center seconds indication

center seconds indication

The center second pinion is driven indirectly by the third wheel. Since that wheel has to be threaded through the gap of the gear bridge, the monting of the four wheels below the gear bridge is very difficult and time consuming like on hardly any other movement.

Movado 220M: Movado 220M without selfwinding mechanism

Movado 220M without selfwinding mechanism

The center second pinion is beared on both sides and is secured against fluttering by a small leaf spring. Visually and aesthetically a really nice construction.

Just as nice is the golden toned Glucydur screw balance, which beats with 18000 A/h. The only drawback is, that it is not shock protected, which is a bit weird on a movement, which get shocks from the bumper mechanism all the time and is otherwise so well made.

Movado 220M: clutch

clutch

On the mainspring barrel arbour, there’s on top of the ratchet wheel the clutch, consisting of a wheel with a click and an own ratchet. The ratchet is connected to the mainspring barrel arbour, the wheel, which is engaged with the selfwinding mechanism, not. This construction is responsible for detaching the selfwinding mechanism when the movement is wound manually.

Movado 220M: gear train of the selfwinding mechanism

gear train of the selfwinding mechanism

The selfwinding mechanism is quite complex with even two pawls. The bumper weight drives the center wheel clockwise and detaches counterclockwise with the help of the two pawls. Then there are three transmission wheels until the clutch wheel is driven.

Movado 220M: side view of the selfwinding mechanism' gear train

side view of the selfwinding mechanism' gear train

The selfwinding mechanism builds pretty high. Except for the center wheel, no ruby bearings are used.

Movado 220M: bumper weight

bumper weight

The bumper consists of the flywheel mass, a freely moveable gear, a pawl and a spring. This all ensures, that the gear is only driven in one direction and is detached in the other direction. You can easily imagine, why bumper winding systems vanished pretty fast, after the selfwinding mechanisms with oscillating weight became popular.

Movado 220M: Movado 220M: Dial side

Movado 220M: Dial side

The decoration on the dial side is a further highlight of that movement. Of course, a yoke winding mechanism is used, too.

In the lab

The specimen shown here was probably taken off a gold watch and was in good condition, so no revision was made. Nevertheless it is very sad, that this fantastic movement was not appreciated properly and robbed its case - after almost 80 years!

Timegrapher result

With the exception of the values at 6 o’clock, the timegrapher results are excellent! The high quality of the movement cannot only be seen by the eyes, but also be tracked on the timegrapher.

horizontal positions
dial up -1 s/d 284° 0.2ms
dial down +9 s/d 272° 0.5ms
vertical positions
crown right (12 up) -9 s/d 225° 0.9ms
crown up (3 up) +11 s/d 233° 0.6ms
crown left (6 up) +37 s/d 222° 0.1ms
crown down (9 up) -1 s/d 230° 0.4ms

Technical data

Manufacturer:Movado
Caliber:220M
Size:12 3/4''' (measured: 29,2mm)
A/h:18000
Number of jewels:15
Escapement:Pallet lever
Balance types: Glucydur screw balance
Shock protection(s): none
Balance bearing / direction hairspring:Counterclockwise
Moveable stud:no
Adjust mechanism:Long regulator arm
Construction:
  • lever
  • third wheel, seconds wheel, third wheel, center minute wheel
  • center second pinion
  • mainspring barrel
Construction type:solid construction
Winding mechanism:yoke winding system
Setting lever spring:3 hole(s)
Features:
  • SCI (indirect center seconds)
  • AUT (selfwinding)
References: Flume: 1949 II 103
Inventory number:17023

Usage gallery

Movado 220M: Movado Automatic gents watch  (w/o case and golden hands)

Movado Automatic gents watch (w/o case and golden hands)

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